From our campground in Little Bras D'or, NS, it was about a 45-minute drive to the Fortress of Louisburg National Historic Site. A crowd was expected since it was Canada Day (July 1st, 1867, Canada became a self-governing dominion within the British Empire) and park admission was free for everyone. Our National Park passes, provided by Fantasy RV Tours, made it free for us any day but we decided it was best to visit today. On our way, we had to make a quick stop in Sydney to ogle the world's largest fiddle. It stood 17 meters tall (almost 56 feet) and weighed 8 tons. It was created to celebrate the important role music played in the cultural heritage of Cape Breton Island but I think it was just to draw tourists in.
On the water, fishermen were busy even though it was a holiday.
We followed Google Maps only to be turned around and directed back to a visitor center where we had to board a bus to the site. It wasn't a complete waste of time - we caught a different angle on the fort and more fishermen in the fog.
After we exited the bus we explored an old fisherman's sod roof home where volunteers were dressed in period garb. A fellow gave us a glimpse into life in the 1800's. He explained how Cod were caught, processed, and shipped to France. It turns out you can salt and dry Cod (apparently only Cod) to preserve them indefinitely. Just rehydrate and rinse the salt away and the fish is just like fresh. I guess without refrigeration you had to be creative.
A short walk away, we reached the guard house where they actually had a drawbridge over a moat. The moat was open to the sea so I doubt it was very effective for repelling attacks.
Just beyond the drawbridge were guard barracks and then the armory and more barracks.
The governor lived in the big house high on the hill. It also contained the church and barracks for another 700 officers and soldiers.
Oddly, there was a separate guard house outside the building full of soldiers. Half of the building below was for the captain of the guard and the other half housed another dozen soldiers.
Another character filled us in on life in the barracks. Each bed was assigned to three soldiers. Each had a straw-filled mattress for 8 hours of the day. They cooked in the room, washed in the room, and slept in the room. Work details ran 24 hours a day and the soldiers were basically a labor force to build and main the fortress.
The number two man lived in the house below. It was probably well appointed and comfortable in its day but now it housed Legos, lots of Legos.
Only one room was inside the house now and it was covered by a Lego model of the entire fortress. It was fascinating to study the details someone had worked into the model. They had a sense of humor as well judging by the gulls and lobsters spread throughout.
When we left the Legos we walked into a fog bank that transformed the landscape. It lifted almost as quickly as it had rolled in.
In the garden area behind the captain's house, Joani found wild Columbine flowers that were colorful but less full and varied than today's blooms. The captain, by the way, was quite the devious one. He also ran a pub and kept the soldiers in debt so they would have to re-enlist to pay their tab.
As part of the program, a cannon was fired at the close of the fort each day. A detail of soldiers marched through the streets to the sea wall to perform the ritual. Drummers drummed and fifers fifed as the crowd built behind them.
We followed for a bit and snapped our pictures. Joani found this little guy to be precious as he directed his parents to follow the soldiers.
The crowd grew larger as we approached the fortress wall. We realized they were all going to head for the bus as soon as the cannon was fired. We decided to get ahead of the crowd to the buses instead of waiting for the big "BOOM". We reached the bus and boarded with no wait. Almost immediately after the bus started rolling it started to sprinkle. By the time we reached our car, the rain fell in earnest.
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