Tuesday, July 2, 2024, Cabot Trail Full Clockwise Trip, Nova Scotia, Canada

The weather was looking good for the day so we decided to tackle the other side of the Cabot Trail. It was almost 90 miles to the western start of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park just north of Cheticamp. At our first stop, the clouds appeared like a giant wave in the surf rolling out across the sea. I don't think the picture below adequately captured the scene. It was beautiful.


This side of the park certainly had its share of hills and curves following the coastline.


Of course, there were beaches full of rocks to explore and not enough time to linger.


From sea level, we climbed some of the steepest pavement we have traveled (I estimated a 15 to 20 percent grade). The view of the water below was fantastic!


At 410 meters above sea level (1350 feet) we explored the French Mountain Bog. The entire loop was on a boardwalk. There was no solid ground anywhere. Signs told us we might see moose - we did not. What we did see was two species of carnivorous plants. The pitcher plant catches insects in water-filled bladders. When they drown they are digested by enzymes in the bladder.

Purple Pitcherplant, Sarracenia purpurea




Another plant, the Sundew lures insects with sticky nectar droplets (the red part of the plant below). Once an insect is stuck the leaf folds around its victim and digests it.


Ferns were a large part of the growth in the bog as well and everywhere we saw whispy, cotton grass.


Cotton Grass, Eriophorum

In one pond we found this Japanese Iris that seemed to be out of place in the bog.


We took a break in our drive to eat lunch. Joani had some hearty seafood chowder while I had a burger and fries. We consulted the map and realized we could retrace our journey to return to the campsite or we could continue clockwise around the Cabot Trail. Each option was just over 100 miles at that point. We chose to continue the loop.


Crossing the island to the east we encountered the steepest hills I have ever driven (even steeper than our earlier uphill climb). The woods were lush and I'm sure provided some outstanding hikes, but sadly, we just did not have the time. Swinging south as we reached the water again at Neil's Harbor we were now on roads familiar from our travels two days ago but this time we had more agreeable weather. Lakies Head was a bit more enjoyable in the warm sunshine than our previous visit.




I believe the picture below, one of my favorite views, is from Pathend Brook Lookout just south of Cape Smokey Provincial Park. Contrast this view with the one from a few days ago when it was overcast and wet.


Taken two days prior on an overcast day.

Many of the roadside signs were labeled in English and Scottish Gaelic. 


We finished the day back at our campground in time for the travel briefing for the following day. After 200-plus miles around the Cabot Trail I could have used a day off but I settled for a margarita and an early bedtime.

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