Saturday, May 31, 2014

Most of Glacier National Park's points of interest lie along the "Going to the Sun" road (50 miles in length).  The road cuts through the mountains 32 miles to Logan Pass, at 6,646 elevation, and then another 18 miles to the east side of the park.  As you might expect, there was still a lot of snow there, so the road was only open 16 miles into the park (expected to open June 20 and close again September 22, 2014).  It was closed at Avalanche campground about 6 miles beyond the north end of Lake McDonald.  That left us with plenty to explore.  Snow melt fills Lake McDonald with some extremely clear, cold water that seems to change color with different lighting.

Do you ever feel like the forest is watching you?

Glacial flour gives the water its unique color.

Our first foray into the park took us as far as the Lake McDonald Lodge situated at the north end of the lake.  It does not have quite the history that the Yellowstone lodge has but it is still extremely interesting with a mix of rustic and chalet and lots of native american touches.

The Lake McDonald Lodge was built in 1913 by John Lewis, but the road wasn't completed until 1920.

In the early days you approached the lodge by a boat on the lake, therefore the front of the lodge faces Lake McDonald.  This is the facade that faces the road, but it is really the rear of the hotel.

An enormous inglenook-type fireplace graces the lobby.

Taken from the second floor looking down at the cozy fireplace.

Hanging throughout the lodge are many paintings by John Fery, artist of the rockies.

This is the side that faces the lake.  It is the most impressive view of the Swiss Chalet style lodge, by far.

Friday, May 30, 2014

Bye-bye Helena - Hello Glacier National Park.  Google maps showed us a route completely different from what I had envisioned.  It had us go west (Hwy 12) then north (Hwy 141, to 200, to 83, to 35, to 2).  I thought I should go north (Hwy 287, to 89) and then west (Hwy 2). Google mapped a shorter route and since I had no reason to doubt it, we followed their plan.  It was 216.8 miles of back roads (8,663.9 trip/68,145.0 total) that went surprisingly quickly.  It had three advantages over the freeway.  It was a slower pace, we rarely saw any traffic and the scenery was (I'm sure) more interesting.

The North American RV Park was about 6 miles from Glacier's west entrance which made it pretty convenient.  It was still early in the season, so there were not many people in the area yet (maybe 10% of the campsites were being used).

There were snow capped mountains and thick forest in every direction around us.  I think we were lucky with our timing - the weather could not be better!  After settling in we decided to relax for the afternoon and wait for the morning to make our first trip into the park.

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Joani's research had found the Archie Bray Foundation for the Ceramic Arts in west Helena, Montana.  A recommendation from the very helpful receptionist in the Governor's office made it our priority for our last day.

The grounds almost seemed deserted.  Joani found a pamphlet showing a map of the grounds, so we just started wandering around. There were ceramic pieces everywhere you looked!

We were allowed to go just about anywhere on the grounds, but must ask before entering individual studios.

Robert Harrison's Potter's Shrine, one of the few pieces on the property that bears an artist's name, features many of the different bricks made in the old factory.

There was an old brick factory on the grounds which included the unusual looking bee-hive kilns.  The factory obviously had not been used in a very long time and most of the machinery was in bad repair, but they managed to decorate every corner with pieces of art, both large and small.

The remains of two 100 year old beehive kilns.

There was a really upscale gazebo where a lot of artwork was displayed.  Well, maybe it would be better to say it was covered with artwork.  It was hung on the walls and ceilings, leaned up against it and scattered in the grass all around it.  It was really an interesting way to present a wide variety of works.

Pots, sculptures, bowls, teapots are scattered everywhere.

Seconds are placed in "the boneyard".  They make for a very interesting and whimsical landscape.

What a feast for the eyes!  It is as if the earth is bubbling with imagination and wonder!

I would love to share a morning cup 'a joe with these characters!

We worked our way around the grounds for a while and then found the working studios.  They were open and we were told it was fine to wander around inside.  There were less than a half dozen artists working, and the extremely laid back atmosphere was apparent.

Artist from all over the world apply for the chance to work at the Bray for up to 2 years.  "Resident Artist" that are selected are given a studio and subsidized materials.

I have never seen so many different types of kilns!

Inside the studios, we saw many works in progress.

Another room full of kilns.

Back outside, it was like a treasure hunt!

Everywhere you looked there were remnants of the Western Clay Manufacturing Company that produced bricks from 1883 until 1961.

Another building housing a dozen studios.

Behind the old brick factory we found a wonderland of sculptures.

Aruina by Robert Harrison

There was a sales gallery where work from the many resident artists was on display (and on sale).  Many of the artists were from out-of-state or other countries.  The foundation apparently holds workshops and classes and people come here to learn new techniques.

This was my favorite piece.  The artist is Heesoo Lee.  The photo does not convey the amazing amount of detail!